Monday, December 3, 2007

Put a Cork in it

This weekend we went to Cork. It was excellent. Cork has been my favorite city (other than Dublin) so far. It felt a bit industrial, yet had just the right amount of independent shops, fantastic restaurants, and open air markets. I just loved it there and felt really down when I had to get on the train to return back to Dublin. Maybe it's because it was my last weekend trip, but I think it was because I really connected with the city.

Peter and I left so early on Saturday morning that we arrived at the train station before it even opened. Once on the train I promptly conked out, and awoke just in time to work on the outlines for the pile of papers I have to write this week. Our first task upon arrival in Cork was to check into our B&B. There was a little mix-up there which was completely my fault, but we had a place to stay and it was great. Except for the fact that the B&B was on a tilt. I was leaning ever-so-slightly to the side for most of the trip.

Our first stop was the tourist office to figure out how to get to Blarney. Tickets in hand, we strolled around city centre and explored the shops until it was time to get on the bus. The town of Blarney is so quaint you'd think it was plucked right from a Yeats poem. The grounds of Blarney castle were an easy walk from the bus stop, and we were eager to see everything.
That's Blarney Castle.

Blarney Castle was the coolest castle we've seen so far because it was ruins, not a refurbished replica of the old castle. It was so fascinating to climb around in the ruins. It started to rain heavily, making the steep circular stone staircases very slippery and I was nervous that I would slip and knock out my front teeth, but I managed to get all the way to the top to kiss the Blarney Stone. A lecherous old man holds you, bending backwards over the edge, making snappy comments as you kiss the stone. I tried not to think about how many people's lips have touched the stone before mine did.
This is the stream that runs through the grounds of Blarney Castle.
This is Pete at the very top of the castle.
Me in one of the old rooms of the castle.
This is a sign from The Murder Hole, aka the Best Room in the Castle.

After kissing the stone it was time to explore the grounds. There was a druid circle, wishing steps, a witch's kitchen, and other beautiful natural settings filled with lore.
The grounds of Blarney Castle as seen from the top of the castle.

It began to rain even more heavily but we stuck it out for a while. When we felt that we had seen enough of the landscape, we booked it to a local cafe to dry out. We ended up at the Kopi Cafe in Blarney where I had some lovely dark hot chocolate and a slice of apple pie (I shared the apple pie with Pete, for the record.) Then we went to Blarney Woolen Mills, which was like any other Irish design store, but with more neat woven and knit items.

We caught the bus back to Cork and had supper at Market Lane, a restaurant that gets its ingredients exclusively from the exquisite open air English Market in Cork. We had walked through the English Market earlier - it was a bustling place with fresh produce and meat and baked goods. Market Lane was awesome. Well made food, excellent quality. We were tired and not really up for going to the pubs so we decided instead to see Fred Claus. Urgh. Not the best movie ever made.

The next morning we decided that we really, really wanted to visit the Cork Butter Museum. We walked all the way there and found it easily - but it was closed for the season! A grave disappointment.
See how disappointed Pete is that the doors to the museum are locked?

So then we walked some more and went to the Cork Gaol. We walked the entire distance of Cork to get there. Uphill. Sore legs. Despite the physical strain, the visit to the Gaol was good. The building was filled with highly realistic wax figures dressed as prisoners, wardens, etc., which made for a creepy atmosphere.
See? The wax figures are creepy, aren't they?

Exterior of the Gaol
Interior of the Gaol.

After the Gaol it was back down town for lunch. We went to Market Lane again because it was so good. I had butternut squash and feta au gratin with sundried tomatoes. Yum. Then back home on the train to Dublin. And now I need to write papers.

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